The Italian Lakes – Agnitus Life

Heading for the Hills

A visit to Italy is a magical experience — ancient towns and villages, the food, panoramic views, the food, shopping, the food, fashions, on and on. (Did I mention the food?) Most tourists focus on the primary destinations for their first few visits, such as Rome, Florence and Tuscany, the Amalfi coast, and Venice. Certainly, that’s where any tourist should start… they’re popular for a reason. But then it’s time to move on, and the lakes area should be next on your list.

I’ve gone to Lombardy, sitting at the base of the Alps, a number of times, and what strikes me most about this region is the attitude. For sure you’ll be overwhelmed by its beauty, both natural and man-made — all of the towns around the three lakes, Maggiore, Como, and Garda, have an urban sophistication and renaissance charm. But these folks have a reserved dignity and relaxed composure that’s not readily found in other regions of Italy. And there’s a diversity here not found in other parts of Italy, possibly because of its proximity to other European cultures.

It’s easy enough to get in and around the Lakes Area — you fly into Milan, rent a car and drive to Como, about 30 miles away. And like every touristy spot in Italy, English is practically a primary language. The best time to visit is in April/May or September — although it won’t be warm enough for swimming, it’s perfect for touring — mid 60’s – 70’s Fahrenheit during the day. Summer is much warmer, but the swarms of tourists can ruin the experience.

Now back to the food. The cuisine reflects the region’s proximity to France and so is a blend of Country French and Italian culinary techniques, leaning towards rich and hearty — Risotto alla Milanese, and Osso Buco are good examples. Butter and rice are often preferred over olive oil and pasta, and cheeses, such as gorganzola and Grana Padano, are offered as desserts. It is a must-experience for food enthusiasts.

Osso Buco and risotto

I laid out four driving tours spanning a week to cover the most important destinations around the three lakes. Three are set up to operate from one base, Como, a town on the lake of the same name. For the fourth tour, we recommend spending a day or 2 in the Lake Garda area, since the driving distance from Como is more than most can tolerate — 220 miles roundtrip. And while at Lake Garda you can visit Verona, about 30 miles from Sirmione.

I would recommend spending a week in the region to give you a break from four days of driving, and to give you an opportunity to round out your itinerary to really capture the essence of the region. While in Como, check out Milan, try the funiculare to Brunate, a picturesque little village just above Como, or, my favorite, do a food walking tour in Como. Tours By Locals, an excellent company I’ve used throughout Europe, can set you up here and these tours are a blast.

I should mention that although this is primarily a driving tour, you do have options. You can go by boat, either through private or group tours, to visit the key sites on all three lakes. If you prefer private, Tours By Locals won’t disappoint, although they can be pricey. Get your guide is another good touring company, although they tend to offer mostly group tours. And if you’re undecided on driving or cruising, you can book a ferry at the last minute at the ticket offices in most towns without advance reservations.

As for me, I prefer driving — I see more and I’m on my own schedule. While I used to rely on GPS for directions, I have entered the 21st century about a month ago, and so now rely on Waze — it works in most European countries, offering real-time navigation and traffic updates. As for all of our travel guides, scout out parking areas and restaurants for each town (trip advisor and yelp can help with the latter) before you arrive in country, and print out this itinerary so you have a hard copy to take with you. Again, while you might not fall in love with every destination, there’s likely to be a few that will make the trip worthwhile.

ITINERARY 1 — Lake Como East

This one is an easy drive (about 80 miles roundtrip) and includes 4 towns. The highlight here is Bellagio, where you likely will spend more time, while a quick stop may be enough for the other three.

ITINERARY 2 — Lake Maggiore

This one’s a bit longer: actually, it’s twice as long, at 146 miles roundtrip, and can include 8 towns, if you’ve got the heart for it. But on the positive side, you get to venture into Switzerland as you circle the entire lake.