CALCATA — 18 MILES
Calcata is one of the gems on this itinerary. It is believed, although not with any degree of certainty, that the town was originally a settlement of the Falisci, an Italic tribe that was part of the Etruscan world. Calcata is situated on an outcropping of land, literally on the edge of a cliff, and feels cut off from the rest of the world, both in time and geography. It’s primarily an artist’s community now, and few people live there full-time. But when it’s up and running — which is only on the weekends, it’s lively and dramatic, with cobblestone streets and worn floors, lots of art shops, ivy-covered arches, interesting by-ways and winding alleys, and incredible and unexpected views.
There was a time when the town was at risk of wasting away. In the 1930’s there were concerns about the structural integrity of the cliffs and a fear of earthquakes, and that led the government to relocate its residents. Things turned around in the 1960’s, when artists began to move in, giving it a decidedly Bohemian air, and a new lease on life.
Here’s a strange piece to Calcata’s history. There used to be pilgrimages to the town’s main piazza because of the relic it possessed — the foreskin of the infant Christ, papal approved. You won’t be able to see that anymore, but it’s still definitely worth the visit.
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